Category: DIY

Can be used for precise temperature control in areas like sous-vide.

This software was tested on Raspberry Pi Pico. Attached with:

• DS18B20 temperature sensor
• I2C 128*64 mono-color display
• 3 LEDs for displaying status
• Rotary encoder to set target temperature
• Relay to control heating element (for example, a cheap rice-cooker that don’t have any built-in microcontroller)

Connections:

• Temperature sensor – GP16
• I2C display: SDA – GP26, SCL – GP27
• LEDs: GREEN – GP20, YELLOW – GP19, RED – GP18
• Rotary encoder (no pullup resistor required): GP12, GP13
• Relay: Share pin with RED LED – GP18.

Status:

• Green: temperature above target (heating off)
• Red: temperature below target (heating on)
• Yellow: updating display content

Source code: https://github.com/monoKeith/Temperature-Switch

STL files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939284

VIOFO A129 Pro Duo installation guide for 2019 Subaru Impreza Hatchback (with Eyesight).

Power connected with VIOFO Hardwire Kit HK3

Mini Fuse Tap

Connect [Battery] and [ACC] cable from hardwire kit to fuse tap

Install fuse to fuse tap, I put 3A for [ACC] and 5A for [Battery]

I set cut off voltage to 12.2V, which is around 50% for normal 12V lead batteries. (More info about lead battery here)

Installation

Open fuse box in the cabin

The hardwire kit requires 2 cables, [Battery] provides constant power, and [ACC] is only for signalling the dash cam to go into parking mode. In this case, I choose [ILLUMI] for [Battery], and [12V SOCKET] for [ACC]. (there are more than 1 possible configuration here, you may use a multimeter to make sure you’re connecting to the correct one)

Tear down A pillar, route rear camera cable through the back of the air bag

My model is equipped with Subaru Eyesight, there’s a gap in the middle for powering Subaru HomeLink, however I didn’t get this option (too expensive 🙈), so I can use it for routing wires.

The rear camera cable integrated nicely with the top trim 🎉

Plastic trim on the left of the fuse box, remove it with plastic tool (to prevent scratches)

Plastic trim removed

Unplug fuse in slot [12V Socket] and [ILLUMI], install them to fuse tap accordingly

Fuse tap installed

Route ground [GND] cable through the gap

Attach it to the frame by the screw

Route the power cable the same way as the rear camera cable through the top trim, insert it in A pillar which goes to the fuse box

These 2 wires must stay behind the air bag (between the air bag and the frame), otherwise your air bag may not be able to protect you when it needs to.

Now both cable for front dash cam is done

The power cable can be route through the hole in the frame

Tighten all excessive cables

Close the fuse box

Install front dash cam, pull rear camera cable from the other end, make sure the cable in front is just long enough to be able to plug in

Pass the rear camera cable through B pillar

Stick rear camera in place

By installing it this way, instead of sticking it on the glass, the camera won’t block a lot of view, also maintaining a clean look

(if you have to stick it on the glass, make sure to avoid heating wires, those wires are very fragile and might break when you need to remove the camera in the future)

Since this cable is very long, I decided to integrate it into the rubber tube along with the break light cable located on the top left corner

Unscrew the Philips head screw on left plastic panel

Now we get a small gap between the frame and the panel, which is just larger enough to route the cable through (no need to take the whole panel off)

This thick black cable/pipe is either for washer fluid or break light (not important), it run through the hole on top, and goes into the rubber tube that connects the hatch with the frame

Take apart the rubber pipe from the frame

Run our rear camera cable through the hole

Reinstall the rear back plastic panel (BTW you can hide the cable in the panel just before the gap is closed)

I route the cable below the triangular window, inside the plastic trim, that it looks exactly as original

Tear apart the plastic trim on top of the hatch (no tool needed)

Run the camera cable through the rubber tube (it was very tight, I spent around 5 minutes to slowly forcing it through)

An easier/ faster way is to use a fishing wire to pull it through, but buying one probably takes more than 5 minutes anyway

Pull the wire through the rubber tube, reattach the tube to the frame

Run the wire through any hole in the hatch

Re-attach the rubber tube to the hatch, then hide excessive part of the wire in the hatch

Reinstall the plastic trim

I added 2 clips so the the wire won’t move anymore

Done

Credits

The routing process was inspired by the video below (that I found on Youtube). Luckily, Impreza shares most of the design with Forester, especially the fuse box part. It took me around 2 hours to do everything including taking pictures.